Day 76 – Pyramid song

Camping trips always generate a good deal of washing, so our morning is spent doing some chores (including organising a parcel of stuff to ship home before we head off to Asia).

A walk in to lovely Baranca to grab a cold chai latte (?!? Better than it sounds) for refreshment whilst we upload a few blog entries over WiFi is a pleasant end to the morning.

Our Inca Trail family is quickly scattering around the continent and the wider world, but Todd (our Canadian friend) is also in Lima for his last day before heading home to we arrange to meet up for lunch and do a bit of sight-seeing.

David had told us that there were a number of pre-Inca civilisations in Peru during one of his explanations on the trek, and one such place is located in the middle of Lima.

The place is called Huaca Pucllana and is an extraordinary structure that was discovered in 1881 and is thought to date back to around 400AD, an entire millennium before the Inca Empire started to throw it’s weight around S.America.

It is basically a pyramid, standing around 25m tall (though archeologists think it might have been as high as 30m) made entirely out of small mud bricks.  Somewhere between 6 and 8 million of them! The local people paid tax in the form of time spent making them by hand.

The structure is solid and built with the bricks on their end with small gaps between, because amazingly they knew that this helped provide tolerance to the frequent seismic activity in the area.

Unlike the Inca, this culture did not worship the sun, but instead the ocean and the moon that controls it. The ceramics that have been found all have symbols of fish (their major food source) on them.

In a typically South American way, due to “economic reasons” the site is now cut in half to allow a road to pass through, but the main site continues to be fully unearthed and subject to some of the same Machu Picchu style renovations.

They hope to have the project finished by 2028 as there appears to be at least 50% more of the pyramid still buried under a hill – it will make some sight when it is complete.

A failed attempt to see the Lima version of The Bellagio musical fountains recommended by friends follows as we find it is closed on Mondays so instead we head to Miraflores for a few drinks and some food before saying goodbye to Todd as he heads home to temperatures of -20! Brrrr!


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