Kendall Calling with a 7 week old: Have a nice day OR From Despair to Where?

Before the arrival of our little boy, and in fact even before we decided to try for children in the first place, my wife and I discussed what sort of impact having a child would have on our life.

As ‘older’ parents (I am in my early 40’s) we have had the opportunity to see lots of our friends and acquaintances go through the transition from ‘a couple’ to ‘a family’ and we really admired how people can make the child part of your life, whilst still holding onto some of what made their lives enjoyable B.C. (Before Children).

Inspired by this we were both keen on embracing all the new opportunities and changes that our little boy would bring, but also being conscious of ‘us’ and maintaining some of the aspects of our lives that we enjoyed.

Travelling and getting out and experiencing new things are two key aspects of our life that we wanted to partially hold on to, which brings me to the subject of Kendal Calling.

Kendal Calling is a summer music festival in the Lake District that follows the traditional British format – open air stages; stages in tents; a plethora of unhealthy food and drink choices; camping; and terrible toilets – all located in what is likely to be a muddy field or two.

It was something that some good friends were going to and had asked us if we wanted to join them.  We did.  The line-up was perfect for our demographic – Sterophonics and The Manic Street Preachers headlining were a blast from my younger Indie days – and B.C. we wouldn’t have even hesitated.

But could we go now that we have a 7 week old baby boy?  Was this a step too far in trying to do things that ‘we’ enjoyed?

If you do a bit of searching on the internet you’ll find a number of reviews and views on this specific festival and this article isn’t intended to be a detailed view on the festival itself though I will touch on certain aspects.

It certainly aims to have a more family friendly side to it, having specific ‘free’ tickets for the under 5s and a specific area calling Kids Calling with activities etc for children.  But in all honesty, this isn’t of any use to a 7 week old – though it could have been improved by the provision of a specific baby changing area/tent.

Before arriving, our initial view was this event was simply too soon for us.  I am not a “happy camper” at the best of times, and the thought of doing it with a 7 week old was unthinkable (those that are camping experts may have a different view of the art of the possible here).  Thankfully we had the fortunate position of having access to a friend of a friends house for the weekend close by meaning that we could travel in and out of the festival each day.

With that in place we decided to give it a go.

We had planned on using our Bugaboo Buffalo pram for the weekend as it offers an “off-road” capability, but the amount of rain that had fallen in the preceding days meant we decided to use a sling on the first day and see how the site was.

A very wise decision as the access to the site and the arena itself was a quagmire of squelchy mud – I am pretty certain the pram wouldn’t have come back alive.  There were some people with pushchairs and trolleys on the site, but seeing them push then around reminded me of those World’s Strongest Man contests when they are straining to move cart full of beer barrels!

In fact the sling (we used a Beco Gemini – very impressed with it) was a breeze.  It meant that we could move around easily, keep a close eye on him, and help keep him warm if it got colder later on in the evening.  We added a battery powered set of LED lights (thanks Amazon) to ensure that people saw him at night and didn’t accidentally bump into whoever was carrying him – it also helped him blend in with some “festival chic”.  The only downside was the lack of storage space a pram gives you, but a well packed backpack compensated nicely.

One thing that quickly became apparent is that taking a very new baby to a festival means that you are going to get attention.  Lots of it.  And if you are like us, and were slightly nervous about whether this was a good idea or not in the first place, that can present a challenge.

That is because you need to be prepared to be judged.  Which as new parents can be hard, because you do enough of that to yourselves without the added pressure of others doing it for you.

On the whole the interactions were positive.  People would come up and ask how old he was, and say things like “Good on you”, or “that’s amazing – well done”.  The staff on the gate even gave him his own wrist band!  But be warned there will be a few people that will judge you – we experienced a few disapproving looks, and the odd negative comment throughout the weekend.  Thankfully the former far out-weighed the latter and you can certainly end up feeling like the champion of newborn parents by the end of it.

As already mentioned, the festival definitely tries to appeal to families, and there are certainly a reasonable number of them at the event – mainly with children in the 1-4 age group.  In fact on the evening of the first day we found a small number of large oak trees to the back right-hand side of the main stage, where an informal crèche was in full swing.

This area was great.  It helped you not feel like you were a terrible parent for bringing a child to a festival (the strength in numbers effect), and it also gave you the space to feel confident to feed (we’re breast feeding which does make things a lot easier) and change him (on a quick-chair).  Whilst not an official area, I think it is a regular “feature” and one which provides a great place to watch the bands with your little one.

Noise level-wise, its far enough away that you might be within the unofficial rule of thumb that “if you can have a normal conversation, its not too loud”, but we and some other parents in the area made doubly sure with the use of some ear-defenders.  If you have a new born, then be careful to get ones that don’t put pressure on the fontanel – we used the Ems for Bubs Baby Ear Defenders – that worked well for the most part, though I’d recommend practicing with them a few times beforehand (especially in the sling).

Another aspect that we were concerned about was the toilets.  They are never great at festivals at the best of times, but Kendal Calling does offer the option of paying for “posh toilet” upgrade.  It’s not a cheap option and the locations aren’t that useful and the quality not that different, I think you are better off using the normal ones.  In fact after taking advice from some of the event staff, we used the accessible toilets and had him in the sling when we went (my wife is a fan of using a she-pee at festivals which worked well).

As the evenings main acts start to draw to a conclusion you start to see a procession of families getting ready to leave before the actual end.

Given the state of the muddy access paths I can understand why.  I wouldn’t feel confident with a baby or young child negotiating an exit amongst the massed throngs of revellers – even with a golfing umbrella as a make-shift walking stick.

We did the same and made the relatively short 15 minute walk back to to car at the end of each evening – it does mean that you get to hear the last few numbers of the main band on the wind as you make your way through the car-park; a completely acceptable compromise for being able to go to the event with our little boy.

Overall on reflection, we enjoyed the festival as we would have done B.C.  In fact doing it with our newborn brought a new and positive experience to an activity we had done many times before and made it feel like our first family adventure.  The nerves, uncertainly and self-doubt that we felt at the start passed, and as confidence grew we relaxed and enjoyed the weekend.

Would we do it again?

Definitely, maybe.



Jump Around

At the end of our South American travels I posted a set of “Flashjumps”.

Recapping briefly, a very good friend suggested doing them around the world after seeing one on Facebook celebrating the end of work for a while.

The idea seemed like a good one, and it has continued across Asia.  So here are some of our favourites.

Pointless but fun.

Day 188 – London calling

They say all good things must come to an end, and sadly at least in terms of our adventures around the globe it appears that ‘they’ are right (at least for a little while).

It ends how it it began, with an early alarm call, a train to the airport and a long haul flight with British Airways.

The phrase that Monday mornings poison the Sunday evening that precedes them is one that has, in the past, resonated with me at times.  Often no more so than at the end of a holiday whereby the last few days can be distracted by a focus what is happening in your normal life.

Delightfully we have been free of any such nonsense this time and enjoyed the last moments as much as the rest.  Maybe it is because we are in denial, or maybe because we can hardly remember normal life and when we get back ‘normal’ will have changed with new house, new jobs and new cars.  Whatever the reason it has been wonderful not to suffer from that sense of dread over the last few days.

Landing and not getting a visa or passport stamp is the first real and unmistakable indication that this ‘travelling day’ is different to the others we have experienced since November.

No new languages await the other side of passport control. No new cultures, places to visit or days to plan.  No timezones to calculate or currency conversions to consider.

Due to our Scrooge like approach to UK train tickets we purchased advanced single tickets for the journey back north.  The risk of flight delay that doesn’t materialise means that we have nearly 3 hours in London spare.

As if to re-assure us that there are plenty of reasons to be glad to be back (especially after bypassing winter but still finding grey and rain sodden skies) this gap suddenly feels insufficient as good friends put themselves out to join us at Euston for a drink or two and we enjoy catching up with each other’s worlds.

After a (as suspected) underwhelming rail journey we arrive in Manchester after over 24 hours of travelling, but any measure of tiredness pales into insignificance at seeing my Dad for the first time since October.

Day 187 – Mr Big Stuff

Today required an early start.  Which given it’s a Sunday, our last full day of the trip and we don’t like early starts means there must be a good reason.

There is.

Sumo.

There are only 12 Tournaments a year, spread across the whole country, so we are fortunate that one falls when we are in the same place.  Tickets are popular and were all sold out well in advance, leaving the only option of queuing in the morning in hope that we get some of the 450 unreserved tickets sold on the day.

That said we still hit snooze three times on the alarm clock but finally get ourselves up and out in time to arrive the ticket office by about 7:45.  We were very glad we didn’t go for a fourth snooze as we pick up tickets 320 and 321 and another 10 minutes would have seen us missing out.

Entering the huge Ryōgoku Kokugikan arena, which is about the same capacity as Wimbledon’s centre court, but with an even smaller area of focus, is impressive.  We pop our heads in to see the first few bouts in a quiet and reverential atmosphere but at this time of day it’s just the small amateur guys at this stage so we leave it until later in the day and manage to head back to the Sky Tree to complete our visit.

Timings and weather are kind and we manage to get to the viewing platform at 451.2 metres to see spectacular views across the city and even get to glimpse Fuji-san in the distance with its famous snow coverered volcanic peak.  This is the 3rd highest viewing platform in the world, and adds nicely to the  2nd and 9th that we have seen already on this trip.

A walk back down the river gets us to the Sumo arena in time to see the big boys arriving through the same gate as we use to re-enter. We feel slightly uncomfortable walking past all the crowds with their cameras poised for the next wrester,  the method of whose arrival is notable. There cannot be many major stars from the world of sport who walk to the venue, particularly wearing the traditional wooden sandals, socks and Kimono combination.

Back in the arena it is now almost full and the wrestlers now entering the ring (or Dohyo) are professionals.  Like all professional wrestlers, it seems the Sumo variety are not shy on the old flouncing and strutting around like Peacocks and generally making quite a fuss of it all.

The early functional approach of get on, get it done, get off is replaced by serious gamesmanship and psychological warfare.  On average it takes around 4 attempts of hunkering down before they actually go for it, with each failed attempt met by more stretching, slapping of various parts of their anatomy and lobbing of salt into the ring (something to do with cleansing the area).

Bouts themselves are short and fascinating.  Two huge guys going up against each other and trying to repeat E.Honda’s classic 1,000 Hand Slap move before dumping their opponent to the ground or out of the ring (which can be a shock to some people in the most expensive seats in the house closest to the ring).  Its raw, powerful and absorbing.

Another change with going professional is apparently snazzy clothes.  There are a large number that appear to have got shiny silk nappies on.  Not that I’d say that to their faces.  These guys are huge.  Not just big from a Japanese build point of view, but really really big.  The guys that weigh in at 130kg mark (over 20 stones) are made to look like Walter the Softy when facing an opponent weighing over 200kg (or 31 stones!!!).

You sense that if any of them were Goonies fans then we’d be treated to the best Truffle Shuffle ever.

Day 186 – Why don’t we do it in the road?

One of the latest landmarks to appear in this wonderful pulsating metropolis (or to be precise urban megalopolis) is the striking Tokyo Sky Tree.

Celebrating its second birthday this month, the 634 metre tall structure is the second highest building in the world and is the current World Record Holder for tallest tower.

Similar to the Petronas Towers in Kuala Lumpur, the base of this modern monolith is festooned with a plethora of retail and food outlets than can strip you of your Yen in next to no time.  This is particularly challenging when you realise that arriving at lunchtime on a Saturday means you are given a 3 hour virtual queue time!

After a few hours shopping that has us Googling BA’s weight allowances we return to a still lengthy queue, apparently caused by high winds reducing the frequency and speed of the lifts.  We decide that another 2 hours is too much and bail out to enjoy more of this captivating city and find that for the second time on the trip that crossing the road can be a tourist attraction.

In Vietnam, particularly Saigon, the whole leap of faith and closing your eyes approach to road crossing was no doubt fascinating and one of the the enduring memories of the country.  Tokyo takes the idea further with, as remarkable as it may seem, the interchange near Shibuya train station being actually listed in the Lonely Planet.  It even suggests a location (Starbucks second floor) from which to observe.

There are 5 marked crossings (each exit from the junction and a corner to corner option), and at peak times over a thousand people cross in the 45 second break in the traffic.  Watching from an elevated position they remind me of videos showing microbes swarming on a petri dish.

Film buffs will recognise it from the film Lost in Translation where Bill Murray’s head can be seen above the rest of the throng as he walks across.  We decide that it would be fun to try and recreate a similar scene and therefore I set about making myself look a little bit odd.

Basically I half cross the road, stand in the middle for the duration of the green man and then rush back.  I do this on a number of occasions. In the end the eccentric behaviour pays off with a great image for the album and any humiliation is quickly forgotten.

Wandering around nighttime Tokyo is a captivating experience, and it is definitely one of THE great cities of the world.  The place just pulsates with life in a quirky way that only the Japanese can pull off.

Pimped Japanese sports cars rev louder at red lights, giant screens flash incomprehensible advertisements, J-Pop (that make One Direction seem talented) blasts out of music shops, weird and wonderful clothing is everywhere, bird song is piped into subway stations, train announcements are preceded by jingles that belong in a Nintendo game, and the chop stick shops would look at home on Diagonally.

Tokyo is one of the places I have always wanted to visit ever since reading games magazines as a child and being captivated by the reports from this distant, neon and technological pulsating city.  Sometimes having such expectations can only lead to disappointment, but not this time.

We love Tokyo.

A lot.

 

Day 185 – Big spender(s)

Throughout the course of the trip we have managed to find pretty decent accommodation for the most part, Mendoza was a mistake and a couple of the places on organised tours left a little to be desired, but overall in 180+ days we have stayed in some great places.

Tokyo is never going to be a cheap city, but due a combination of a well timed use of a loyalty system, a sale and some good luck we have managed to bag a really good hotel for our last few days of the trip.

For the second time in succession we’ve received a free upgrade on arrival and have a wonderful room with a view of the Tokyo Tower and remote control curtains!  It is also located in a park so a morning stroll grabbing some breakfast along the way is a lovely way to start the day.

So what do you do in Tokyo?  It is not a city with a huge list of ‘must see’ attractions, but instead one that you should just spend time in its various districts and soak up the ultimate in Japanese urban culture.

With the end of our travels in site, a long haul luggage allowance with a good few kilos spare and a few bits and pieces we wanted to pick up we head out to the streets of Tokyo to do what, despite the economic slowdown, locals do best.  Shop.

An example of how well organised Tokyo is for shopping is the poshest second hand shop in the world.  It would look at home on Oxford Street and has all the designer clothes organised by brand, style and size!  Another close by example has a tag that gives a profile of the previous owners!

Our first stop is the Ginza area of the city full of some of the biggest brands and kooky shops.  We get lost for a hour or so in a 6 storey

toy shop selling all kinds of nonsense, visit the bewildering food hall of the Mitsukoshi department store to buy some lunch and then end up hiding from a thunder storm in Starbucks whilst and secretly eat our purchases.

Consultation with the guidebook highlights that round the corner is a 5 storey stationary store.  On reading this my wife is anything but, and I struggle to keep up as she head over there….thankfully it closes at 7pm so we still had enough of the evening left to enjoy dinner in a very cool Izakaya (an informal food/pub) and a grab a Japanese craft beer on the way home 😉

Day 184 – Bulletproof

I think we are both a little bit in love.

Generally, as I have mentioned on occasions over the last 6 months, one of the few draw backs of travelling is the travelling.

That changed once we arrived in Japan.

Japanese rail travel is simply the most wondrous way to get from A to B we have ever experienced and we actually look forward to getting on the Shinkansen (new trunk line), or as we know it Bullet Train.  A name that the Japanese are surprised by as their trains are “peaceful”.

We like everything about it.

First of all they look amazing.  They are the E-Types of the train world with ridiculously long and sleek front ends, that despite the speeds they travel you sense is a little flashier than pure aerodynamics require.  They have a real “Wow” factor when you first see one pull into a station (or better still fly by on a pass-through on the centre of the three rails at each platform).

The drivers uniforms look like pilots and the people that ensure there is food and drink available look like cabin crew in very smart uniforms and treat you amazingly well, bowing every time they enter or exit the carriage.

Facilities are great, even in standard class, with leg room that would make a British 1st Class seats look away in shame and the bathrooms are something else.  Not only are they immaculately clean, with baby changing facilities & seat wipe dispensers as standard, they have infared sensors for everything; flushing the toilet or lowering and raising the seat is done with a Jedi sweep of the hand. We wouldn’t be surprised if the next generation of trains has a button to operate your bowels for you.

Then there is the service itself.  Swiss watch manufacturers probably set their timepieces by these beasts, the carriages line up with the exact spot on the platform that your ticket tells you to stand, the train stops at each station for less than 3 minutes, announcements are bilingual Japanese-English and the sense of speed as you blast your way through the Japanese countryside banking round turns at 320 km/h is exhilarating.

Even when you venture off the high speed network, the quality of service and facilities are still high and even the slower local engines look more interesting than a bus on rails type we get on UK local networks.

Today we make our last journey, from Kinosaki to Tokyo, and without doubt we can say we are going to miss you Japan Railways.  Particularly we suspect, when we board our train from London to Manchester on Monday evening and our seats haven’t been switched 180 degrees to ensure everyone faces the direction of travel and nobody bows at us.

Days 182 and 183 – Steam

Kinosaki is a small (population circa 4000) but beautiful town set just back from the sea.  With a tranquil willow lined canal running through its centre that is criss-crossed by several stone humpback bridges and plenty of cafés and shops, you could happily while away a couple of sunny days here and feel it was a worthy diversion off the main foreign tourist route.

Undoubtedly the picturesque surroundings are part of the appeal that the place holds, but the reason that mainly Japanese tourists travel here to experience the best examples of one of Japan’s unique cultural traditions….the Onsen.

Yet again we are staying in a Ryokan, and a particularly impressive one at that thanks in part to a free room upgrade.  Our Ryokan includes Japanese tea served in your room and a full on Japanese breakfast in the morning – self BBQ’d Sandfish, spinach and tofu!

In addition our hosts also present us with our outfits for the next few days.  Oh boy.

The full Onsen ‘experience’ starts by dressing in traditional clothing.  That means slightly uncomfortable wooden sandals (complete with special socks that separate your big toe from the rest of them) and Yukatas (a type of kimono).

Niki looks radiant in her beautiful bright gown completed by a wide waistband tied perfectly a bow.  I look like one of those slightly confused elder gentlemen that are occasionally found walking round ASDA in their dressing gowns.

Our outfits are completed by the addition of a rather fetching feminine wicker basket in which we place our towels and then we leave the hotel and walk the down the street to one of the seven Onsen baths that are spread out across the town.

Each of them present the same basic format.  Separate male and female areas in which you strip naked, have a very thorough shower and then immerse yourself in really quite warms pools of water.  And then just relax.

When you have had enough you get out, put your dressing gown and clogs on and head off to find another one to try.  You can grab a bite to eat or a beer on the way as several places along the side of the canal offer sustenance ‘to go’.

The basics are the same but each Onsen offers a different experience.  Some have the additional options of saunas and cold rooms, but it’s the location and design of the baths themselves that we think can make the whole process memorable.

Sat in a open-aired stone pool with blue skies above you, watching steam rise off the water and looking out across the bay towards the mountains whilst listening to sound of a waterfall beside you is simply one of the most relaxing experiences of our entire trip.

Even if you do have to share it with a group of naked Japanese people.

Day 181 – Rainy days and Mondays

After some wonderful weather it is almost as though Japan senses our impending return to the UK, checks the calendar and notices that it’s a Bank Holiday Monday, and decides to help our transition with a day of rain and grey skies.

Thankfully we have been storing up some of the indoor attractions that Kyoto has to offer and do a pretty good job of avoiding the rain.  That said the Japanese seem to be pretty well organised when it comes to rain.

For 500 Yen (about £2.50) you can buy an umbrella from a multitude of places.  Made of clear plastic they are both easily recognisable and give a great sense of openness and visibility compared to the traditional British brolley.  Better still when you enter various establishments across the city you are either offered a umbrella bag therefore negating the need to flap wildly outside a shop, or just a box that you drop your brolly into.  Because they are all the same, it doesn’t matter which one you grab when you leave either.  The whole system works really well.

So what do you do when you are in Kyoto and it rains?  Before you answer that question you might want to remind yourself that we choose to visit a Mazda factory and an incinerator recently.  Our first stop today was to pay homage to the Walt Disney of game design and we set out to visit the headquarters of Nintendo.

A longish underground ride brought us to a (being honest) disappointing industrial estate and a white building with a grey logo on it.  Unperturbed we take some photos and drop off a letter thanking them for all their help in ensuring I didn’t graduate with a first degree but I did leave university with a pretty amazing lap time on Mario Mart.

After that we get a bit more orthodox and head to an official tourist attraction type place, or at least on the face of it, when we visit the International Manga Museum. Once inside it seems far less of a museum and more of a living library.  Everywhere you look there are Japanese people reading the many Manga books, reading sat down on chairs, reading stood up, reading sat on stairs, reading everywhere.

It gives the place a lovely relaxed feel.  There are some exhibits that explain the subtleties of manga vs anime, and the various media examples you can see that the influence manga has and had across  the world, but honestly the best bit of the museum was seeing the range of people, from arguably the most technologically focused nation on the world, sitting and reading comic books (with the absence of smart phones) from the past 60 years on a wet Monday afternoon.

Day 180 – Knock on wood

f you have seen the film “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon”, then you have not only seen an amazing film but also will have a feel for the mesmerising other worldly scene that a bamboo forest can create.

The JR Pass pays dividends again as we get to travel for “free” to the far west of the Kyoto area to get to the Arashiyama area…..and once again walk into the masses of Golden Week tourists.

Perhaps we are being a bit of a tourist snob, but whilst undoubtedly spectacular the number of people make it difficult to really appreciate the beauty of what we are seeing.

In fact, a few days earlier having read the Top 25 experiences of Japan in the Lonely Planet our friend Tom took us to his own personal bamboo forest in an attempt to equal their claims and in fact ended up giving an experience that was far better.  We got to experience what felt like a larger and more dense Bamboo forest with the absence of anyone else, and without the restrictions of fences and barriers.  Instead we clambered through his land harvesting bamboo shoots ready for the BBQ later that day.

So Tom 1 : 0 Lonely Planet.  Well done mate!

Though a visit to Arashiyama is not something that we regretted.  It is a beautiful location and in fact a walk and a stop at the Gio-ji temple is worth the trip alone.

A temple hosting the remains of a dancer that after being spurned by her lover dedicated her life to being a nun.  The gardens of which are hidden under the shade of high canopy trees and surrounded by a moss carpet that possesses more shades of green than you thought possible.  With sunshine dappled across the organic carpet you cannot help but be captivated by the sight.

Visually bamboo forests are wonderful.  But they can also provide an audible treat.  With the blowing wind the densely packed trucks are forced into each other and the sound they make due to their hollow nature is musical.  Different heights and diameter of tree create a different sound.  Our wonderfully clear and sunny day means that sadly we are not able to experience the natural version, but walking along tapping your knuckles against the trees creates something that makes me reminisce about my glockenspiel group at school (and yes, I did get bullied for it).

On the way back home we visit another of Kyoto’s famous temples, Fushimi-inari, which is home to the most Shinto gates we have seen.  And we have seen a lot.  A pathway leading for the bad to top of the hill covers 4 km and is lined by over 30,000 of them creating an odd orange tunnel effect.  Odd? Certainly.  Creates some interesting imagery for the end of an interesting day? Absolutely.